Crown Northampton Grove Desert Shoe Review (Horween No.8 Chromexcel)
The Crown Northampton Grove Desert Shoe in Horween No.8 Chromexcel is a handcrafted desert derby shoe that combines classic British shoemaking with premium American leather. Made in England and part of Crown’s Stitchdown Collection, it’s a versatile style that bridges heritage craftsmanship and everyday wear. In this review we’ll cover materials, construction, fit, comfort, durability, pros & cons, and why many menswear enthusiasts consider this shoe worthy of investment.
Crown Northampton Grove Desert Shoes are unlined, unstructured and have crepe soles. All three of them combined to make this very suitable for late spring and summer. The purchase link is here!
Grove Desert Shoes?
Key Features & Specifications
Premium Horween Leather
- Upper material: Horween No.8 Chromexcel rich, oily pull-up leather from Horween Leather Company in Chicago, USA. The name No.8 comes from a popular cordovan leather colour, rich dark brown colour with burgundy undertone. You can really tell from the photo here, that under the sunlight the red becomes more prominent. The colour becomes lighter as the number goes down and darker as the number goes up.
- Chromexcel is known for its unique finishing process involving greases and waxes, making it durable, water-resistant, and able to develop a deep patina over time.
- On first wear, Chromexcel tends to be firm but softens and molds to your foot with time. The upper is not lined (except for the heel counter), which means it requires less time to be broken in. Often the lining can cause pain to break your shoes in.
Construction Method
- Stitchdown construction — the leather upper is stitched outward to the sole, allowing more flexibility and a unique silhouette.
- Handcrafted in Northampton, England, preserving over a century of British shoemaking tradition.
Outsole & Midsole
- Natural crepe sole — lightweight, comfortable, and resilient under everyday wear.
- Crepe offers a mix of grip and cushion, ideal for casual walking and daily use.
Fit & Sizing
- Four-eyelet derby design with unstructured upper increases adaptability.
- The shoe is unlined internally, with self-backed leather uppers and a half-lined leather footbed with a soft heel pad — enhancing comfort.
- As with many Chromexcel shoes, expect an initial firm feel that gradually softens.
Handmade Quality
Each pair is made to order in Northampton — typical delivery for the Stitchdown Collection is 12-15 weeks due to the handcrafted process.
Leather: Horween No.8 Chromexcel
Horween No.8 Chromexcel rich, oily pull-up leather from Horween Leather Company in Chicago, USA. Developed in Chicago in 1905, Chromexcel undergoes a long hot-stuffing process that infuses oils and waxes deep into the hide, producing a supple yet robust leather that creates amazing patina over time and is also durable.
The name No.8 comes from a popular cordovan leather colour, rich dark brown colour with burgundy undertone. You can really tell from the photo here, that under the sunlight the red becomes more prominent. The colour becomes lighter as the number goes down and darker as the number goes up.
I also really like how the shoes smell. There’s a rich, musky leather scent that I personally enjoy.
The only downside is that I wasn’t particularly lucky with what’s often referred to as the “Chromexcel lottery.” There are some loose grain areas on the vamp, but it’s not a major issue for me.
Upper construction
The upper construction looks fairly simple, but it’s clear that a lot of thought went into it.
On first wear, Chromexcel tends to be firm but softens and molds to your foot with time. The upper is not lined (except for a padded heel counter), which means it requires less time to be broken in. Often the lining can cause pain to break your shoes in. A layer of padding on the heel counter is essential, as it helps reduce heel slippage, and heel is an area where it can wear down more quickly.
The shoe features four metal eyelets and comes with a set of flat cotton laces. The vamp and quarter are joined with double rows of stitching, which is reassuring as this is a high-stress area and helps prevent the shoe from coming apart over time. A single row of stitching runs around the heel counter, securing the inner lining to the upper leather.
The insoles are made from vegetable-tanned leather and will gradually mould to the shape of your feet with wear.
Construction & outsoles
The shoes are made of stitchdown construction method, the upper leather is connected to the outsole, in this case a layer of “mid-sole” which is cemented with the crepe outsoles. The company uses Number 10 sole stitcher which was traditionally used in Northampton.
The outsoles are durable and natural crepe outsoles. I have chosen brown crepe outsoles in this case, which is more suitable with the upper colour. The outsoles are very comfortable and I think it’s a bit of a different material compared to my usual crepe soles that I know. It almost feels more premium. Also it doesn’t get dirty as quickly as I expected, which is a surprise. Because crepe soles get dirty very easily.
One caveat is that I have worn them on rainy surfaces, and expectedly, it’s pretty slippery.
Comfort, Durability & Wear
Break-In & Comfort
Unsurprisingly there was no breaking-in required with these shoes. They were comfortable right out of the box. They are unlined, unstructured and have crepe soles. All three of them combined to make this very suitable for summer.
Stitchdown construction also allows the soles to flex with your foot, and that just adds extra comfort to the wearers.
Longevity
One thing to notice is that stitchdown construction can be resoled by specialist cobblers familiar with this method. It’s less common than Goodyear welt refurbishment, but it is possible. Also, the Crown Northampton offers crepe sole restoration service, the link is here.
Horween Chromexcel’s oil content means it repels moisture better than many regular leathers, though like all leather, it requires occasional conditioning.
How to Style the Grove Desert Shoe
- Casual weekend outfits: Grove shoes will go well with light denim and a knit.
- Smart-casual looks: chinos with a button-down shirt and overshirt.
- Layered autumn ensembles: twill trousers and a field jacket.
Its minimal derby silhouette pairs well with relaxed and refined wardrobes alike.
What You Get for the Price
- Handmade in England — Crown Northampton’s factory uses traditional machines like the Number 10 stitcher to execute stitchdown construction.
- Natural crepe sole — softer and lighter than rubber yet durable for everyday wear.
- Unlined, flexible build — enhances comfort and reduces weight.
- Premium leather — Horween Chromexcel is celebrated worldwide for its performance and aging qualities.
Priced around £295, it sits in the accessible handmade footwear segment, offering excellent value for a handcrafted, stitchdown desert shoe.
