The Ultimate made in Northampton Brogues Comparison: Crockett & Jones vs Tricker's vs Grenson

This review compares three esteemed Northampton-based shoemakers: Crockett & Jones, Tricker’s, and Grenson. Each brand offers unique qualities catering to different preferences. For a comprehensive understanding, we’ll examine their sizing, price points, leather quality, upper construction, and outsole construction.

I also made this review with Nick from Stridewise: please have a look! Click here

Table of Contents

History of brogues

Origins of Brogue Shoes

Brogue shoes originated in the rugged terrains of Ireland and Scotland, crafted from untanned hide to endure wet conditions. The term “brogue” stems from the Gaelic “bróg,” meaning “shoe.” The characteristic perforations, or broguing, were functional, allowing water to drain as wearers traversed marshy areas. This design made brogues the footwear of choice for farmers and laborers in the 19th century.

Evolution into Fashion

Over time, brogues evolved from practical workwear to fashionable footwear. By the early 20th century, they gained urban popularity for their unique aesthetic and versatility. Today, brogues are staples in both men’s and women’s wardrobes, available in various styles and materials, suitable for formal and casual occasions. Their evolution underscores their enduring appeal and adaptability.

Grenson vs Crockett & Jones vs Tricker's

Crockett & Jones vs Tricker's vs Grenson Sizing

  • Crockett & Jones Cardigan 335 Last Size UK 11 E
  • Tricker’s Bourton 4444 Last Size UK 10.5 Fitting 5
  • Grenson Archie 201 Last Size UK 10.5 G

For reference, my feet measure around 11.5 on the Brannock device, with a width between D and E. Measurements can vary based on time of day and sock thickness.

Crockett & Jones offers a commendable fit. For dress shoes, aligning the widest part of the foot with the shoe is crucial. The width accommodates my D/E width feet well. The newer Cardigans use the 378 last, similar in fit. Wider fittings are available through Made to Order (MTO).

The toe box appears more symmetrical compared to other lasts. The vamp and heel provide a snug fit, making it the best fitting among the three for my feet, especially with thinner socks.

Tricker’s Bourton 4444 is considered a wide last, one of their country lasts. Despite its almond-shaped toe box, it feels narrow, causing slight discomfort in the pinky toes. This might be due to the shoes being newer and not fully broken in. In my experience, the 4497 last offers a better fit. The vamp feels spacious, allowing for tight lacing and a comfortable feel.

Tricker’s previously produced wider lasts, but they seem less common now, possibly discontinued.

Grenson’s 201 last is the most spacious of the three, with extra room in the toe box and heel. It’s not overly roomy but allows for thicker socks. Made in Grenson’s G width, it’s wider than the standard. Grenson offers some shoes in F (equivalent to US D) and some in G widths. For narrower feet, the F width is suitable.

Crockett & Jones vs Tricker's vs Grenson - Price Point

  • Crockett & Jones Cardigan 5: Priced between £510 – £565. The Cardigan 4, made with Shell Cordovan, is over £850. Pembroke which is replacing Cardigan 4 is priced at £850.
  • Tricker’s Bourton: Currently £565, similar to Crockett & Jones.
  • Grenson Archie: Priced at £510, making it the most affordable.

All are made in the UK, in their Northampton factories, showcasing excellent craftsmanship and quality control. Crockett & Jones rarely goes on sale, making discounts uncommon. Tricker’s and Grenson often have sales, offering potential savings for patient buyers.

Crockett & Jones vs Tricker's vs Grenson - The Leather

Crockett & Jones utilizes Horween’s Shell Cordovan for their Cardigan 4, known for its beauty and softness, enhancing fit. The upper is lined with soft kip leather. They don’t disclose other leather sources, a common practice among UK shoemakers, but maintain high-quality standards.

Tricker’s uses espresso-colored calf leather for the Bourton, sourced meticulously to avoid imperfections. The leather is soft yet durable, suitable for country lifestyles, with a deep, rich color. Tricker’s collaborates with various tanneries, experimenting with different leathers. The Bourton is a permanent classic model.

Grenson vs Crockett & Jones vs Tricker's

Grenson’s Archie features Fontana leather, an oiled pull-up leather, initially a special model but now standard in brown grain leather. They don’t disclose tannery sources, but the quality is evident.

None of the brands disclose their tanneries for their usual models (unless it’s Horween of C.F stead that is well known) for competitive reasons, but all use high-quality leather.

Crockett & Jones vs Tricker's vs Grenson - The Upper Construction

Stitch Density

Crockett & Jones exhibits superior construction, evident in their stitch density. While differences are subtle, closer inspection reveals neater, denser stitching. This doesn’t significantly impact longevity but showcases meticulous craftsmanship. Tricker’s stitch density and quality control are slightly better than Grenson’s.

Brogue Detail

The broguing on Crockett & Jones is refined, with a denser pattern and smaller perforations. Tricker’s features larger patterns, with Grenson having the largest circles and double-row stitching instead of vamp broguing. The perforated decoration varies, likely due to different leather clicking techniques.

Tricker’s toe box brogue detail is closer to the tip compared to the others. Personally, I prefer the broguing detail on Crockett & Jones due to its refined and symmetrical appearance. While Tricker’s and Grenson offer unique designs, the larger broguing on Grenson feels less formal, making it more suited to casual wear. The positioning of Tricker’s brogue patterns near the toe box gives it a distinctive character, but I feel a slight adjustment closer to the vamp could elevate the look.

Grenson vs Crockett & Jones vs Tricker's

Crockett & Jones vs Tricker's vs Grenson - Outsole Construction

All three brands use the Goodyear welt construction, ensuring durability and the option to resole when needed. Here’s a breakdown of their outsole construction:

  • Crockett & Jones and Tricker’s: Both feature Dainite studded rubber outsoles, offering excellent grip and a versatile, semi-formal look. Dainite outsoles are durable and great for wet conditions, making them a favorite for city use.
  • Grenson Archie: Unique with its Triple Welt construction, which enhances the shoe’s visual depth and casual aesthetic. The internal rubber outsole has a louder tread sound on hard surfaces, which some might find distracting in quiet environments like offices.

Grenson’s Triple Welt, while visually striking, serves more of an aesthetic purpose than a functional one. It adds a rugged flair, appealing to those who want their shoes to stand out in casual settings.

Crockett & Jones vs Tricker's vs Grenson - Which one to choose?

Deciding between these three brands depends on your personal style and intended use:

  1. Crockett & Jones: Best for formal occasions. If you’re starting a professional wardrobe, the refined construction, superior leather, and sleek design make it a go-to choice for office wear.
  2. Tricker’s: A perfect blend of formal and rugged. The gusseted tongues and robust construction make it ideal for country wear or those navigating wet climates, while still being suitable for semi-formal occasions.
  3. Grenson Archie: The most casual option, ideal for pairing with selvedge denim or chinos. Its bold design and Triple Welt construction cater to a more modern, laid-back style.

Frequently asked questions

  • Are Crockett & Jones shoes worth the investment?

    • Absolutely. Their superior craftsmanship, durable materials, and timeless designs make them a great long-term investment for formal footwear.

  • What is the advantage of Grenson’s Triple Welt construction?

    • The Triple Welt is primarily an aesthetic feature, adding visual depth and uniqueness to the shoe. It also reinforces the Goodyear welt, but its primary appeal lies in its bold design.

  • Which brand offers the best fit for wide feet?

    • Grenson’s G-width shoes are the most accommodating for wider feet, followed by Tricker’s 4444 last. Crockett & Jones offers a snugger fit, better suited for standard-width feet.

  • Are Tricker’s Bourton shoes waterproof?

    • While not fully waterproof, the gusseted tongue design and quality leather provide better water resistance than standard brogues, making them suitable for wet climates.

  • How do I maintain my brogues to ensure longevity?

    • Regularly clean and condition the leather, use shoe trees to maintain shape, and resole when the outsoles show significant wear.

Where to buy?

If you’re in the UK, head to Jermyn Street in London, where you can explore all three brands in one convenient location. For international shoppers, here are a few trusted retailers: